AUSTRALIAN COOKING METHODS

This is my new favorite book. I read it in one sitting. It is part cookbook, part memoir, part self-help, written by Kenny Shopsin of, well, Shopsin's. Shopsin's is a New York establishment. It used to be it's own little corner grocery store/restaurant, but in 2007 they moved into the Essex Street Market, right next door to my friend Anne's cheeseshop.

Eating at Shopsin's is an experience. It's where I picked up the phrase "Mad Decent." I don't think that Kenny cooks there as much anymore, but he's always around. Often, the place is run by his son Zack, who is also a profound and intense guy.

This book, Eat Me, includes recipes from Shopsin's such as Turkey Cloud and Mac N Cheese Pancakes. But perhaps better than the recipes are Kenny's insights. Like this gem regarding how to cook a burger: "Try to resist the impulse to press down on the patties with a spatula while they're cooking. This not only presses the juices right out of them, it compresses the meat, and that combination defeats the point of everything you've done up to this point. I still do it from time to time. I can't help myself. I guess it's a lot like masturbating. I feel really good while I'm doing it, but then I feel bad afterward."

I kind of like this part too, about pancakes: "Anybody who is tempted to question my use of frozen pancake batter might want to stop and think about what pancakes really are. They are flour and milk drowned in butter and some form of sugar. They're crap. As far as food value, you might as well take Crisco, whip it up with powdered sugar, and spread it on your face. I am not saying they're not delicious or that you shouldn't eat them, but they're a luxury, a recreation, like smoking marijuana or having sex."

Includes such recipes as "Haschich Fudge" (yes, it's exactly that), "Frogs Legs a la Parisienne", "Flaming Peaches", "Devil Sauce", "Braised Pigeons on Croutons", "Bass for Picasso" (made for him for lunch), and how to make Sloe Gin.